Where to eat in Donostia

One potato omelette a day (two sittings), txuleta steak and Gernika peppers that are pure religion. Put your name down for the omelette and respect the house rules.

Kitchen pintxos, not counter ones: beef cheek in red wine and seared foie that justify the queue. Order at the bar and eat standing.

The Idiazabal risotto and the rib kebab are modern Old Town classics. A short menu called out at the bar; it changes by the day.

Its counter of seasonal wild mushrooms is among the most photographed in town. Pricier, but the produce is in another league.

Avant-garde, signature pintxos: the "la hoguera" cod finishes cooking at your own table. For those who want to see how far the pintxo can go.

A Gros institution and a pioneer of the competition pintxo. A broad, award-winning counter, less crowded than the Old Town.

Donostia seasonal cooking: a pintxo bar downstairs and a sit-down restaurant upstairs. A good step up if you want a table without going full fine-dining.

Three Michelin stars and one of the temples of new Basque cuisine. Book well ahead; it's a whole-evening experience, not a quick meal.